DIY Projects

Save week-long watering: set up a cheap ollas system for balcony pots

Save week-long watering: set up a cheap ollas system for balcony pots

I’m a big fan of simple, low-cost solutions that make a garden feel cared for without demanding every spare minute of my time. On hot summer weeks when I want to leave town or just spend more time enjoying my plants than dragging watering cans, I turn to an old technique: ollas. These unglazed clay pots buried in soil slowly release water directly to the roots, and with a few affordable materials you can set up an effective olla system for balcony pots that can keep plants hydrated for a week or longer.

Why I use ollas for balcony pots

Ollas are ancient, eco-friendly, and efficient. They reduce evaporation because water moves from the clay into the soil via capillary action and roots draw what they need. For balcony gardeners dealing with limited space, wind, and containers that heat up quickly, that direct, slow release is a game changer. I like them because:

  • They save water compared with frequent surface watering.
  • They reduce the number of times I need to water—often to once a week for many pot combinations.
  • They promote healthier root systems and steadier soil moisture, reducing stress on flowering and edible plants.
  • They’re cheap and easy to set up with store-bought or DIY versions.
  • What you’ll need

    Here’s a list of basic materials to set up a single olla in a balcony pot. I usually prepare a set of them for my larger planters.

  • Unglazed terracotta pot with a small neck (commonly sold as garden pots or traditional ollas). A 1–3 L pot is good for 20–30 cm pots; larger pots need larger ollas.
  • A lid or flat tile to reduce evaporation from the olla opening (optional but helpful).
  • Funnel or a soil scoop for filling the olla with water.
  • Gravel or a small base to sit the olla on (optional) to improve drainage around the neck.
  • Potting soil appropriate for your plants.
  • A moisture meter or your finger for checking soil moisture.
  • If you prefer buying ready-made ollas, look for “terracotta olla” or “sub-irrigation clay pot” from garden suppliers—brands like Lechuza make self-watering planters but traditional ollas are much cheaper (often $10–30 depending on size).

    How to size and place ollas in balcony pots

    Choosing the right olla size is key. As a rule of thumb:

  • Small pots (under 20 cm diameter): no olla or a tiny DIY olla (e.g., clay bottle) works.
  • Medium pots (20–35 cm): use a 1–2 L olla.
  • Large containers or rectangular planters: one 3–5 L olla per 40–60 cm of planter length, or two smaller ollas spaced evenly.
  • Placement: I sink the olla slightly off-centre so it’s within easy reach of most plant roots and not directly under a trailing plant that could block the top. Keep the neck at or slightly above the soil line for easy refilling and to reduce root intrusion into the opening.

    Step-by-step setup

    Here’s how I install an olla in an existing balcony pot. It takes about 10–20 minutes per pot.

  • Remove the plant if the pot is already planted. If you’re starting fresh, fill the pot with potting mix to about two-thirds height.
  • Place a small bed of gravel or broken pottery shards where the olla will sit—this helps water distribute a little better and keeps the neck from getting clogged.
  • Fill the olla partially with water and place it in the pot. Topping it up now helps settle the surrounding soil.
  • Backfill around the olla with potting mix, firming gently so there are no large air pockets but not compacting it too hard—roots need aeration.
  • Plant or replant around the olla, keeping the soil level just below the olla’s rim. Leave the top opening accessible and cover it with a lid or a flat rock if you’re worried about debris or mosquitoes.
  • Water the whole pot once from the top to help the soil and roots make contact with the olla surface.
  • Filling and watering schedule

    I usually fill my ollas once, then check soil moisture every few days. How long an olla lasts depends on pot size, plant type, sun exposure and temperature. As a rough guide:

  • Cool, partial shade, medium pots: 7–10+ days.
  • Hot, full sun, thirsty vegetables or large containers: 3–6 days—use larger ollas or fill more frequently.
  • To fill, use a funnel or hose into the top. If you need to leave for a week, fill the olla just before you go and again the day before if it’s very hot or if containers are large and thirsty.

    Which plants do well with ollas?

    Ollas suit a wide range of balcony plants. I use them for:

  • Herbs (rosemary, thyme, basil—note: basil likes consistent moisture; rosemary prefers drier soil so use a smaller olla).
  • Vegetables (cherry tomatoes, peppers, lettuces—adjust olla size for thirstiness).
  • Perennials and annual flowers (geraniums, petunias, salvias). They reward steady moisture with more blooms.
  • Container trees/shrubs (dwarf citrus or ornamental olives)—use larger ollas and check more often.
  • Plants that dislike constant moisture—like some succulents, cacti, and Mediterranean shrubs—aren’t good candidates unless you use a tiny olla and very well-draining soil.

    DIY olla alternatives

    If you can’t find clay ollas, there are budget-friendly DIY options I’ve used:

  • Unglazed clay wine bottles (flip them upside down, plug neck with a small cork or keep open—works surprisingly well).
  • Plastic bottles with tiny holes in the cap buried neck-down (less efficient and more evaporation, but it saves water compared to top-watering).
  • Permeable ceramic pots or half pots inverted into the soil.
  • I prefer true unglazed clay for its porosity and longevity. But in a pinch, the DIY options keep plants alive and save trips with the watering can.

    Maintenance and troubleshooting

    Ollas are mostly hands-off, but they do need occasional care:

  • Algae and debris can accumulate in the neck—cover with a lid or fine mesh.
  • Mineral buildup (from hard water) can clog pores—soak ollas in vinegar solution (1:1 with water) for a few hours, then rinse and refill.
  • If soil remains too wet, reduce olla size or bury it slightly deeper; if soil dries too quickly, use a larger olla or add mulch around plants to conserve moisture.
  • Roots sometimes grow into the olla neck. If this happens, trim roots carefully or remove and clean the olla before placing it back.
  • ProblemFix
    Soil stays soggyUse smaller olla, improve drainage, add perlite to mix.
    Soil dries out too fastUse larger olla, add mulch, move pot to less-exposed spot.
    Top water pools around ollaCheck for compacted soil—loosen gently and water to help percolate.

    Costs and where to buy

    For most balcony setups, an olla costs far less than automated drip systems. Expect to pay:

  • Small clay ollas: $8–$20 each.
  • Medium/larger ollas: $20–$50 depending on size and shipping (clay is heavy).
  • DIY options: under $5 if you repurpose bottles or old pottery.
  • Good sources: local garden centres, Etsy artisans, Amazon, and specialty irrigation retailers. Search “unglazed clay olla” or “handmade ollas” to find a range of sizes and finishes.

    Setting up ollas on my balcony was one of those small changes that makes summer gardening both easier and more enjoyable. They’re quiet, low-tech helpers that let me travel, relax, or simply water less without compromising plant health. If you try them, start with one or two in your thirstiest pots and see how they change your watering routine—chances are you’ll be as pleasantly surprised as I was.

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